I recently experimented with MTE on stock PixelOS (stable Nov. release and 15 QPR1) and can confirm that it's not enabled by default. Needed to run commands with adb* to enable it. There's a developer option to enable it but not sure it's sufficient; a GrapheneOS developer wrote on Github that it's not, so I used adb. After enabling MTE on stock PixelOS you will have to manually capture a bug report either with adb or from developer options in order to get a stacktrace; PixelOS won't show you a crash notification with logs. That is probably useful to do on GrapheneOS as well if a developer needs complete system logs to debug an issue, but GrapheneOS also provides a crash notification where the user can save a stacktrace (tombstone) directly without enabling developer options to create a full bugreport. That's very nice.
Worth noting that GrapheneOS' MTE usage aims at additional hardening compared to the stock PixelOS; some more information about that here. In my experience it does catch more bugs in daily usage compared to MTE usage with Android's stock allocator (Scudo; also used on stock PixelOS).
Also worth noting that GrapheneOS forces usage of memory tagging for apps that use custom crash handlers: https://github.com/GrapheneOS/platform_art/commit/83ca0f414896bd9fd49c56adbe789e205e03c43c
Likely that this feature helped me to provide a stacktrace to Onlyoffice developers even when MTE usage on stock PixelOS did not give me a crash report (although it did crash the process).
For third-party apps run on GrapheneOS you will of course need to enable memory tagging for an app for this to come into effect.
For anyone interested in experimenting with MTE on PixelOS, I used these commands to enable it (taken from an article by Google Project Zero):
adb shell
shiba:/ $ setprop arm64.memtag.bootctl memtag
shiba:/ $ setprop persist.arm64.memtag.app_default sync
shiba:/ $ setprop persist.arm64.memtag.default sync
shiba:/ $ reboot
*adb shouldn't really be used with an OS you run as a "daily driver", because of the security implications of giving a computer large control over your device, which means you are placing a large amount of trust into that computer.